Yangon

 

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Yangon (Rangoon) is located in the fertile Ayeyarwady River delta region of southern Myanmar, approximately 30km from the Andaman Sea.  The city was founded on the site of a small, ancient fishing village in the mid-18th century, and became the capital of the country in 1885, when the British completed their conquest of Mandalay and Upper Myanmar.   

Although Yangon has a population of over 4 million inhabitants, the city feels less congested and hectic than many other large Asian cities.  The British established an orderly grid system of wide streets in the city center, and the downtown area has a very Victorian and Edwardian era colonial feel about it (although unfortunately many of the old buildings are in need of repairs).  There are many parks, gardens, trees and lakes, giving the impression of a very green and open city.  Adding to the laid-back environment, there are many small teashops downtown where local residents relax, chat, drink tea, and eat snacks. 

Dominating the landscape of Yangon are the glimmering towers of the Shwedagon Paya.  This shrine is the most important Buddhist shrine in the country and is a major highlight of any visit to Myanmar.  Shwedagon Paya is on a high hill in the northern reaches of Yangon.  The main stupa (zedi) is a great bell-shaped dome 98 meters high, covered in almost 60 metric tonnes of gold leaf and is capped by a crown (hti) topped with an orb covered with over 1800 carats in diamonds.  The central zedi is surrounded along the base by many smaller golden spires, 4 large shrines for the principal Buddhas, and 8 small shrines representing the signs in the Burmese zodiac.  Many other shrines and gold-covered towers surround the zedi, and the entire complex can be seen from miles away.  Sunrise and sunset are optimal visit times, as many Burmese come to Shwedagon Paya at these times to pray, and the darkened skies accentuate the glittering of the golden spires in the sunlight.

Other temples worth visiting in Yangon are the Sule Paya, located in the center of a major downtown crossroads;  the Botataung Paya, unusual in that the central zedi is hollow; and the Chaukhtatgyi Paya, which has an enormous reclining Buddha.  Yangon has several gardens and lake areas - two which are particularly pleasant are the Mahabandoola Garden (downtown, near the Sule Paya) and the Kandawgyi Lake area (near the Shwedagon Paya, north of the center).

The downtown Bogyoke Aung San Market (also known as Scott Market) is a good place to go shopping and bargaining for Burmese handicrafts.    Other things to see and do downtown are walking around to see the old British colonial buildings, and relaxing as the Burmese do at a good local teashop for inexpensive tea and snacks.

Click on the images below for views from my tour of  Yangon:

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Sule Paya, viewed from the Mahabandoola Garden Sule Paya
A Magic Boat for sending prayers skyward
Sule Paya
This child is sending the prayer boat up, up, and away
Sule Paya
Until finally the prayer boat arrives at a shrine in the pagoda
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Sule Paya
A shrine to Buddha - the aura around the Buddha's head is electric and moves!
One of Yangon's many ancient buses A Victorian building from Yangon's colonial past, seen from the Independence Monument A Yangon teashop - a popular place for the locals to hang out, chat, drink tea, and eat snacks
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A very ornate clock tower in downtown Yangon Shwedagon Paya
Sun rising over small spires
Shwedagon Paya
View of the zedi just before sunrise
Shwedagon Paya
One of the large lion dragons, or Chinthe, guarding the entrances

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Shwedagon Paya
Monks carrying their offering bowls
Shwedagon Paya
A group of pilgrims praying to the zedi before dawn
Shwedagon Paya
A man blessing one of the 8 planetary posts representing the Burmese birth signs
Shwedagon Paya
Chinthes at the base of the zedi
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Shwedagon Paya
A man saying morning prayers, facing the zedi from a small shrine
Shwedagon Paya
Visitors circling the zedi in a clockwise direction, as is customary
Shwedagon Paya
The central zedi, seen in the predawn light - 98m high and covered in 60 tonnes of gold
Shwedagon Paya
The planetary post of Yahu, the Tuskless Elephant, the zodiac sign for Wednesday afternoon
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Shwedagon Paya
People walking in front of the planetary post for Garuda
Shwedagon Paya
A man and Buddhist nun blessing the planetary post for Garuda (my birth sign in the Burmese Zodiac)
Shwedagon Paya
Sunrise illuminating the spires and Chinthes at the base of the zedi
Shwedagon Paya
A close-up of one of the Chinthe lion-dog guards along the zedi base
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Shwedagon Paya
Shrine to many avatars of Buddha
Shwedagon Paya
A Chinthe with a money offering in his mouth
Shwedagon Paya
One of the four shrines to Buddha at the base of the zedi
Shwedagon Paya
An outlying shrine, guarded by lion-gods
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Shwedagon Paya
Spirit guardian
Shwedagon Paya
Me in front of the zedi at dawn
Shwedagon Paya
The stupa (zedi) at sunrise
The crown (hti) at the top has many large diamonds and rubies
Shwedagon Paya
A monk walking around the zedi in the early morning
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Shwedagon Paya
The zedi is continuously regilded; here you can see monks surveying the work
Shwedagon Paya
A view of the zedi from across the temple complex
Shwedagon Paya
A group of Buddhist nuns walking around the zedi
Shwedagon Paya at dusk
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Chaukhtatgyi Paya
Buddha in the paranibbana (reclining) position
Chaukhtatgyi Paya
This reclining Buddha is one of the largest in Myanmar
Chaukhtagyi Paya
Buddha's feet
Chaukhtatgyi Paya
A short explanation of Buddhist beliefs
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Botataung Paya
This shrine is unusual in that the zedi (stupa) is hollow
Botataung Paya
A novice monk going through his initiation ceremony
Botataung Paya
The novice monk is accompanied by his family to the shrine
Botataung Paya
Novice monks are brought to the temple in a procession - lots of singing and raucous music!