Yangon (Rangoon) is located in the fertile
Ayeyarwady River delta region of southern Myanmar, approximately 30km from the
Andaman Sea. The city was founded on the site of a small, ancient fishing
village in the mid-18th century, and became the capital of the country in 1885, when
the British completed their conquest of Mandalay and Upper Myanmar.
Although
Yangon has a population of over 4 million inhabitants, the city feels less
congested and hectic than many other large Asian cities. The British
established an orderly grid system of wide streets in the city center, and the
downtown area has a very Victorian and Edwardian era colonial feel about it
(although unfortunately many of the old buildings are in need of repairs).
There are many parks, gardens, trees and lakes, giving the impression of a very
green and open city. Adding to the laid-back environment, there are many
small teashops downtown where local residents relax, chat, drink tea, and eat
snacks.
Dominating the landscape of
Yangon are the glimmering towers of the Shwedagon Paya. This shrine is the
most important Buddhist shrine in the country and is a major highlight of any
visit to Myanmar. Shwedagon Paya is on a high hill in the northern reaches
of Yangon. The main stupa (zedi) is a great bell-shaped dome 98 meters high, covered in almost 60 metric
tonnes of gold leaf and is capped by a crown (hti) topped with an orb
covered with over 1800 carats in diamonds. The central zedi is surrounded
along the base by many smaller golden spires, 4 large shrines for the principal
Buddhas, and 8 small shrines representing the signs in the Burmese zodiac.
Many other shrines and gold-covered towers surround the zedi, and the
entire complex can be seen from miles away. Sunrise and sunset are optimal
visit times, as many Burmese come to Shwedagon Paya at these times to pray, and
the darkened skies accentuate the glittering of the golden spires in the sunlight.
Other
temples worth visiting in Yangon are the Sule Paya, located in the center
of a major downtown crossroads; the Botataung Paya, unusual in that the
central zedi is hollow; and the Chaukhtatgyi Paya, which has an enormous
reclining Buddha. Yangon has several gardens and lake areas - two which
are particularly pleasant are the Mahabandoola Garden (downtown, near the Sule
Paya) and the Kandawgyi Lake area (near the Shwedagon Paya, north of the
center).
The downtown Bogyoke Aung San
Market (also known as Scott Market) is a good place to go shopping and
bargaining for Burmese handicrafts. Other things to see and do
downtown are walking around to see the old British colonial buildings, and
relaxing as the Burmese do at a good local teashop for inexpensive tea and
snacks.
Click on the images below for
views from my tour of Yangon:
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| Sule
Paya, viewed from the Mahabandoola Garden |
Sule
Paya
A Magic Boat for sending prayers skyward |
Sule
Paya
This child is sending the prayer boat up, up, and away |
Sule
Paya
Until finally the prayer boat arrives at a shrine in the pagoda |
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Sule
Paya
A shrine to Buddha - the aura around the Buddha's head is electric and
moves! |
One of
Yangon's many ancient buses |
A
Victorian building from Yangon's colonial past, seen from the Independence
Monument |
A Yangon
teashop - a popular place for the locals to hang out, chat, drink tea, and
eat snacks |
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| A very
ornate clock tower in downtown Yangon |
Shwedagon
Paya
Sun rising over small spires |
Shwedagon
Paya
View of the zedi just before sunrise |
Shwedagon
Paya
One of the large lion dragons, or Chinthe, guarding the entrances |
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Shwedagon
Paya
Monks carrying their offering bowls |
Shwedagon
Paya
A group of pilgrims praying to the zedi before dawn |
Shwedagon
Paya
A man blessing one of the 8 planetary posts representing the Burmese birth
signs |
Shwedagon
Paya
Chinthes at the base of the zedi |
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Shwedagon
Paya
A man saying morning prayers, facing the zedi from a small shrine |
Shwedagon
Paya
Visitors circling the zedi in a clockwise direction, as is customary |
Shwedagon
Paya
The central zedi, seen in the predawn light - 98m high and covered in 60
tonnes of gold |
Shwedagon
Paya
The planetary post of Yahu, the Tuskless Elephant, the zodiac sign for
Wednesday afternoon |
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Shwedagon
Paya
People walking in front of the planetary post for Garuda |
Shwedagon
Paya
A man and Buddhist nun blessing the planetary post for Garuda (my birth sign
in the Burmese Zodiac) |
Shwedagon
Paya
Sunrise illuminating the spires and Chinthes at the base of the zedi |
Shwedagon
Paya
A close-up of one of the Chinthe lion-dog guards along the zedi base |
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Shwedagon
Paya
Shrine to many avatars of Buddha |
Shwedagon
Paya
A Chinthe with a money offering in his mouth |
Shwedagon
Paya
One of the four shrines to Buddha at the base of the zedi |
Shwedagon
Paya
An outlying shrine, guarded by lion-gods |
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Shwedagon
Paya
Spirit guardian |
Shwedagon
Paya
Me in front of the zedi at dawn |
Shwedagon
Paya
The stupa (zedi) at sunrise
The crown (hti) at the top has many large diamonds and rubies |
Shwedagon
Paya
A monk walking around the zedi in the early morning |
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Shwedagon
Paya
The zedi is continuously regilded; here you can see monks surveying
the work |
Shwedagon
Paya
A view of the zedi from across the temple complex |
Shwedagon
Paya
A group of Buddhist nuns walking around the zedi |
Shwedagon
Paya at dusk |
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Chaukhtatgyi
Paya
Buddha in the paranibbana (reclining) position |
Chaukhtatgyi
Paya
This reclining Buddha is one of the largest in Myanmar |
Chaukhtagyi
Paya
Buddha's feet |
Chaukhtatgyi
Paya
A short explanation of Buddhist beliefs |
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Botataung
Paya
This shrine is unusual in that the zedi (stupa) is hollow |
Botataung
Paya
A novice monk going through his initiation ceremony |
Botataung
Paya
The novice monk is accompanied by his family to the shrine |
Botataung
Paya
Novice monks are brought to the temple in a procession - lots of singing
and raucous music! |